The Rolex Datejust II: Mother of Pearl Dial Configurations Pre-Owned & New | NYC Diamond District
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The Rolex Datejust II with a Mother of Pearl (MOP) dial represents one of the most exclusive and luxurious iterations of the 41mm series. Because Mother of Pearl is a natural material, no two dials are identical, making each timepiece a unique work of art. In the Datejust II collection, this dial is most frequently paired with diamond hour markers to complement its iridescent quality.
Natural Origin and Craftsmanship
Rolex uses only the finest Mother of Pearl sourced from the innermost layer of mollusk shells. The material is notoriously fragile and difficult to work with. Rolex specialists must precisely cut the shell into thin discs, which are then polished to reveal the natural "cloud" structures and color depth. Depending on the origin of the shell, these dials can exhibit various hues:
- White Mother of Pearl: The most common variety, showing a pearlescent white base with flashes of pink, green, and blue.
- Black Mother of Pearl (Tahitian): A rarer variant that displays darker, more dramatic overtones of charcoal, deep purple, and emerald.
The Diamond Marker Requirement
In the Datejust II lineup, Mother of Pearl dials are almost exclusively fitted with 18ct gold settings containing brilliant-cut diamonds. This is done because standard baton or Roman numeral markers can often get "lost" against the complex, shifting background of the shell. The raised diamond settings provide the necessary contrast and sparkle to maintain legibility while enhancing the watch's status as a high-jewelry piece.
Reference Variations
While Mother of Pearl is available across different metal combinations, two specific references define this category in the Datejust II era:
1. Reference 116333 (Yellow Rolesor)
The combination of 18ct yellow gold and White Mother of Pearl is a hallmark of classic Rolex luxury. The yellow gold fluted bezel and center links provide a warm frame for the cool, iridescent reflections of the dial. This version is often seen as the ultimate "Statement Datejust."
2. Reference 116334 (White Rolesor)
The 116334 pairs an 18ct white gold fluted bezel with a stainless steel case. When fitted with a Mother of Pearl dial, this configuration offers a more monochromatic and contemporary look. It is favored by collectors who want a high-value dial but prefer the understated appearance of white metal.
Investment and Rarity
Mother of Pearl dials carry a significant premium over standard sunray or lacquered dials. Because the Datejust II was only in production for a limited window (approximately 2009 to 2016) before being replaced by the Datejust 41, finding MOP variants in the secondary market is increasingly difficult. The organic nature of the material also means that certain "fire" patterns in the shell are more desirable than others, affecting the individual valuation of the watch.
Maintenance Considerations
Unlike metal dials, Mother of Pearl is sensitive to extreme temperature shifts and direct physical impact. While protected by the scratch-resistant sapphire crystal and the 100-meter waterproof Oyster case, owners should ensure that the watch is serviced only by authorized technicians, as the dial cannot be "refinished" if cracked; it must be replaced entirely.
Diamond Source NYC Selection
At Diamond Source NYC, we specialize in sourcing these rare dial configurations. Each Mother of Pearl Datejust II is inspected under high magnification to verify the authenticity of the shell pattern and the quality of the diamond settings. We recommend viewing these pieces in person, as the shifting colors of the dial are impossible to fully capture in static photography.