Best Rolex, Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet Watches for Men and Women in NYC
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The year 2024 marked a significant moment in the world of haute horlogerie with the introduction of the Patek Philippe Cubitus, the brand's first entirely new men's collection in a quarter of a century. This highly anticipated release generated considerable buzz within the watch community, a testament to Patek Philippe's enduring reputation for innovation and timeless elegance. The Cubitus collection, characterized by its distinctive square case, aims to blend a sense of boldness with the refined elegance for which the manufacture is renowned. However, its arrival was not without debate, with initial reactions ranging from intrigue to skepticism, and immediate comparisons drawn to the iconic Nautilus. This comprehensive analysis will delve into the intricacies of the Patek Philippe Cubitus, exploring its history, design, technical specifications, market performance, and its place within the broader horological landscape. The Patek Philippe Cubitus was officially introduced in 2024, with the unveiling taking place at a dedicated event in Munich. Prior to the official launch, details and images of the new collection surfaced online, generating considerable discussion and speculation among watch enthusiasts. The timing of the Cubitus's arrival, so soon after the discontinuation of the steel Nautilus 5711, strongly suggests a strategic intent to provide an alternative within the highly competitive luxury sports watch market. The initial leak of the design further underscores the intense interest and scrutiny that accompany any new offering from such a prestigious brand in the contemporary digital landscape.
The design of the Patek Philippe Cubitus represents a notable departure from the brand's predominantly round-cased timepieces, adopting a distinctive square shape with rounded corners. This angular form, available in both 45mm and 40mm sizes, offers a significant wrist presence. The dials of the Cubitus models feature a horizontally embossed pattern with a sunburst finish, a design cue immediately reminiscent of the iconic Nautilus. The initial models were presented with dial colors including olive green, blue, and blue-gray, with a later addition of brown for the 40mm rose gold variant. Baton-style hands and applied hour markers, treated with luminescent coating, ensure legibility across the collection. The Cubitus features an integrated bracelet, echoing the design of the Nautilus bracelet, crafted from materials matching the case: steel, two-tone steel and rose gold, white gold, or rose gold. A patented fold-over clasp with a lockable adjustment system ensures both secure wear and comfortable sizing. Distinguishing aesthetic features include the interplay of polished and satin-brushed finishes on the case and bracelet, enhancing the sense of depth and refinement. Notably, the platinum Ref. 5822P-001 stands out with a baguette-cut diamond set into the bezel at the 6 o'clock position. The deliberate incorporation of design elements reminiscent of the Nautilus points to a strategic decision to capitalize on the established recognition and appeal of this iconic model while introducing a distinct square case form.
The initial launch in October 2024 comprised three core models:
A stainless steel version with a green dial (Ref. 5821/1A-001). This model features a 45mm square stainless steel case with rounded corners and a slim profile of 8.3mm. The sunburst olive green dial showcases a horizontal embossed pattern, reminiscent of the Nautilus. It is powered by the self-winding Caliber 26-330 S C/430 with a date function and sweep seconds. The integrated steel bracelet includes a patented fold-over clasp with a lockable adjustment system.
A two-tone steel and rose gold model with a blue dial (Ref. 5821/1AR-001). This version also has a 45mm square case, combining stainless steel and 18k rose gold with a thickness of 8.3mm. The sunburst blue dial features the signature horizontal embossing and rose gold applied baton-style hour markers. It is driven by the same Caliber 26-330 S C/430 movement as the steel model. The integrated bracelet is crafted from rose gold and steel.
A platinum model featuring a grand date, day, and moon phase display with a blue dial (Ref. 5822P-001). As the flagship model, this watch features a 45mm square platinum case with a height of 9.6mm. The sunburst blue dial includes a grand date display at 12 o'clock, day indication, moon phases, and small seconds. It is powered by the new self-winding Caliber 240 PS CI J LU, which incorporates six patented innovations. This model is presented on a navy blue composite material strap with a platinum fold-over clasp.
Subsequently, at Watches and Wonders 2025, Patek Philippe expanded the collection with the introduction of two smaller 40mm models:
A white gold model with a blue-gray dial (Ref. 7128/1G-001). This 40mm model has a square case crafted from white gold with a thickness of 8.5mm . The dial features a sunburst blue-gray hue with a horizontal embossed pattern . It is powered by the self-winding Caliber 26-330 S C/434, which includes a stop-seconds function . The bracelet is made of white gold with a lockable adjustment system.
A rose gold model with a brown dial (Ref. 7128/1R-001). The second 40mm addition features a square case made of rose gold with an 8.5mm thickness. The dial showcases a sunburst brown color with the collection's signature horizontal embossing. It also utilizes the Caliber 26-330 S C/434 movement. The bracelet is crafted from rose gold.
The Patek Philippe Cubitus inevitably draws comparisons with other models within the brand's portfolio, most notably the Nautilus and the Aquanaut. While sharing design elements like the horizontally embossed dial and integrated bracelet with the Nautilus, the Cubitus distinguishes itself with its square case shape. This places it within a different design category, alongside other notable square luxury watches from competing high-end brands such as the Cartier Santos and Tank, the TAG Heuer Monaco, and the Bell & Ross BR-05. The deliberate incorporation of design elements reminiscent of the Nautilus points to a strategic decision to capitalize on the established recognition and appeal of this iconic model while introducing a distinct square case form. The subsequent introduction of a smaller 40mm case size suggests a responsiveness to initial market feedback and an aim to broaden the collection's appeal across different wrist sizes.
The Patek Philippe Cubitus collection is powered by two distinct self-winding movements. The time-and-date models (Refs. 5821/1A-001, 5821/1AR-001, 7128/1G-001, 7128/1R-001) house the Caliber 26-330 S C. This movement, with a diameter of 27mm and a thickness of either 3.32mm (for /430) or 3.59mm (for /434), comprises either 212 or 219 parts and 30 jewels. It offers a power reserve ranging from 35 to 45 hours and features a 21K gold central rotor adorned with the same horizontal embossing as the dial. Operating at a frequency of 28,800 semi-oscillations per hour (4 Hz), it incorporates a Gyromax® balance and a Spiromax® balance spring. A notable feature of this movement is the stop-seconds (hacking seconds) function, allowing for precise time setting. The platinum Ref. 5822P-001 is powered by the Caliber 240 PS CI J LU. This movement measures 31mm in diameter and 4.76mm in thickness, containing 353 parts and 52 jewels. It provides a power reserve of 38 to 48 hours and features an off-center 22K gold minirotor, also with horizontal embossing. It operates at a frequency of 21,600 semi-oscillations per hour (3 Hz) and includes an instantaneous grand date, day indication by hand, moon phases, and small seconds. Both calibers utilize gold rotors, a hallmark of Patek Philippe's self-winding movements , and all Cubitus models proudly bear the Patek Philippe Seal. A significant innovation within the Cubitus collection is the instantaneous grand date, day, and moon phase display featured in the Ref. 5822P-001. The date change occurs in a remarkable 18 milliseconds, a testament to the advanced engineering of the movement. The development of this movement involved the filing of six specific patent applications, primarily concerning energy management and the synchronized jumps of the calendar indications. Additionally, the patented fold-over clasp with a lockable adjustment system represents an innovation in bracelet design, enhancing both the security and the ease of adjusting the fit.
In conclusion, the Patek Philippe Cubitus represents a bold new chapter for a brand steeped in tradition. As the first entirely new men's collection in 25 years, its arrival has sparked significant discussion and scrutiny within the horological world. While drawing inspiration from the iconic Nautilus, the Cubitus carves its own identity with its distinctive square case and modern design language. The technical sophistication of its movements, particularly the innovative Caliber 240 PS CI J LU with its instantaneous calendar functions, underscores Patek Philippe's continued commitment to horological excellence. The initial market response has been dynamic, with strong early demand followed by price adjustments on the secondary market, suggesting that the Cubitus's long-term market performance and collectibility will evolve over time. Ultimately, the Patek Philippe Cubitus stands as a testament to the brand's willingness to explore new design territories while remaining anchored in its legacy of exceptional craftsmanship, offering a compelling option for those who appreciate a distinctive and contemporary expression of luxury watchmaking.