Complete Guide to the Rolex Submariner 1680 ‘Red Sub’

Introduction to the Rolex Submariner 1680 ‘Red Sub’

The Rolex Submariner 1680 ‘Red Sub’ stands as one of the most iconic and sought-after models in the history of Rolex watches. Introduced in the late 1960s and produced until the early 1970s, this model became a defining moment for Rolex in the world of luxury dive watches. With its distinctive red writing on the dial, the Red Sub is a true milestone in the Submariner family, marking a period of change and innovation for the brand. The 1680 ‘Red Sub’ not only represents Rolex’s commitment to technical excellence and reliability but also serves as a symbol of style and prestige in the watch community.

The ‘Red Sub’ gained its nickname from the bold red “Submariner” text that is printed on the dial, which contrasted against the otherwise classic black dial of the watch. This unique feature made the 1680 a standout in the Submariner lineup, which had previously used only white text. Though originally considered a subtle design choice, the red lettering has since become one of the key features that collectors and enthusiasts associate with this model. Over time, the Red Sub became a rare collectible, especially as many of the earlier examples were produced in limited quantities, further elevating its status among Rolex aficionados.

History and Importance of the ‘Red Sub’ in Rolex’s Legacy

The introduction of the Rolex Submariner 1680 marked the brand's first step into incorporating a date function into the Submariner line, giving it a modern twist while retaining the ruggedness that the Submariner family is known for. The Red Sub, in particular, stands as an important chapter in Rolex's rich history, reflecting a time when the brand was innovating its design elements. The use of red text was not just a cosmetic feature but a testament to Rolex’s attention to detail and its ability to create subtle design enhancements that would eventually influence future models.

Collectors today recognize the Rolex Submariner 1680 ‘Red Sub’ not just as a watch but as a piece of history. Whether you’re a seasoned collector or a casual watch enthusiast, the ‘Red Sub’ is one of those timepieces that resonates with the legacy of Rolex’s craftsmanship and innovation. Its enduring popularity among collectors continues to drive the demand for this model, solidifying its place in the world of fine watches.

What Makes the Rolex Submariner 1680 ‘Red Sub’ Special?

The Rolex Submariner 1680 ‘Red Sub’ holds a unique place in the world of horology, not just because of its functionality, but because of its distinctive design elements. The most notable feature that sets this model apart is the red text on the dial, which gives it the “Red Sub” nickname. The red writing on the dial, specifically the "Submariner" text, was a design choice that immediately caught the attention of collectors and enthusiasts alike. This was a first for Rolex, as previous Submariner models used only white text. The use of red added a bold new aesthetic to the traditionally understated dive watch, and it has since become one of the most defining features of the 1680 model.

In addition to the eye-catching red writing, the Rolex Submariner 1680 also marked a significant step forward in the technical evolution of Rolex dive watches. It was the first Submariner to feature a date complication, which was a valuable addition for divers and professionals who relied on precise timekeeping. This practical feature did not detract from the watch’s rugged design; instead, it enhanced the Submariner’s overall versatility and appeal.

For many collectors, the combination of the red text and the date complication is what makes the 1680 ‘Red Sub’ so special. It’s a watch that embodies both style and substance, offering the wearability of a daily timepiece with the prestigious design that Rolex is known for. The Rolex 1680 Red Sub is truly a perfect blend of form and function, and it remains one of the most highly coveted vintage models in the Rolex catalog.

The Red Writing and Its Significance

The red text on the Rolex Submariner 1680 is more than just a design element—it has come to symbolize the rarity and uniqueness of this model. When it was first introduced, the red “Submariner” text was a subtle change, but over time, it became one of the most recognizable features in Rolex history. The appearance of the red text also corresponds with a specific period in Rolex’s history, making it a valuable point of identification for collectors. The significance of the red dial cannot be overstated, as it separates the 1680 ‘Red Sub’ from other Submariners in both design and legacy.

Evolution of the Rolex Submariner Models

The Rolex Submariner has long been the benchmark for dive watches, and its evolution over the years reflects both Rolex’s commitment to quality and its ability to adapt to the needs of watch enthusiasts. The introduction of the Rolex Submariner 1680 in 1969 was a pivotal moment in the history of the model. This particular reference was the first Submariner to feature a date complication, setting it apart from its predecessors, which were strictly time-only models. The 1680 brought a new level of functionality to the Submariner collection, making it an even more versatile choice for both divers and everyday wearers.

The 1680 was also the first model in the Submariner lineup to feature the iconic red text on the dial, making it instantly recognizable as the "Red Sub." This subtle yet impactful design change marked the beginning of a new era for Rolex, where small but significant details would shape the legacy of the brand. The red “Submariner” writing was a departure from the usual white text found on earlier models, and this aesthetic shift contributed to the model’s growing popularity among collectors.

While the Rolex Submariner 1680 was a success in its own right, the model evolved further with the introduction of the 1680’s successor, the Rolex Submariner 16800, which featured improvements like a quicker-set date and a higher water resistance. However, it is the 1680 that remains the most cherished among collectors due to its historical significance and its status as the first Submariner to feature a date function and red text.

Rolex 1680 as a Turning Point in Submariner Design

The 1680 represents a critical turning point for Rolex, not only because of its functional upgrades but also because of the aesthetic changes that would shape the future of the Submariner collection. Prior to the 1680, the Submariner was known for its simple, utilitarian design, but the introduction of the date complication and the red text on the dial signaled a move towards a more refined and versatile model. The 1680 laid the groundwork for later models, such as the 16800 and the modern Submariner Date models, which continue to carry forward the legacy of the date feature and refined dial designs.

Despite the evolution of the Submariner line, the Rolex 1680 Red Sub remains a beloved model due to its connection to Rolex's rich history and its place in the development of the modern dive watch. Collectors and enthusiasts continue to seek out vintage 1680 models, with a particular focus on those with the red text, making it a symbol of both vintage Rolex excellence and watchmaking innovation.

The Red Line: Understanding the Iconic Red Text on the ‘Red Sub’

One of the most defining features of the Rolex Submariner 1680 ‘Red Sub’ is its iconic red text, which sets it apart from other models in the Submariner family. The term “Red Sub” comes from the bold, red “Submariner” script on the dial, a design feature that became a hallmark of this particular reference. This redline, as it's often referred to, appeared on the dial during a short period of production, making the 1680 Red Sub one of the most sought-after vintage Rolex models among collectors. But what exactly makes this red text so significant?

The appearance of the red text on the Submariner dial marked a departure from the traditional design that Rolex had been known for. Prior to the introduction of the 1680, the Submariner models used only white text on the dial. The addition of the red writing was not just an aesthetic change, but a reflection of Rolex’s evolving approach to design. The red text highlighted the watch’s special features, including its enhanced waterproof capabilities and the addition of the date function, which had never been seen in previous Submariner models.

The decision to use red text also contributed to the visual appeal of the 1680 ‘Red Sub,’ creating a unique and bold look that stood out in the world of dive watches. Over time, the redline became a symbol of the Rolex Submariner 1680, and it’s now recognized as one of the key features that collectors and enthusiasts look for when identifying an authentic Red Sub.

The Importance of the Red Text on the Dial

The red text on the Rolex 1680 dial holds significant historical importance. While it was originally considered a design flourish, it quickly became one of the defining characteristics of the Red Sub. The red “Submariner” script is often associated with the early 1970s production years, and it has become a marker of rarity and desirability among Rolex collectors. Because the use of red text on the dial was limited to a specific production period, finding a well-preserved example of the Rolex 1680 Red Sub has become an exciting and rewarding pursuit for many in the Rolex community.

Today, the red text on the dial continues to symbolize the special place the 1680 holds in Rolex’s history. It serves as a reminder of the brand's commitment to innovation and design while retaining the classic appeal of the Submariner series. For collectors, the redline represents more than just a design choice—it’s a connection to the Rolex legacy and a testament to the brand's enduring influence on the world of luxury watches.

Identifying the Rolex Submariner 1680 ‘Red Sub’ Models

Identifying an authentic Rolex Submariner 1680 ‘Red Sub’ is crucial for collectors and watch enthusiasts who are on the hunt for this iconic piece of horological history. While the Rolex Submariner 1680 itself is part of the renowned Submariner line, it is the red writing on the dial that truly makes this model stand out. Understanding the key features of the Red Sub can help distinguish it from other models in the Submariner family and ensure that you're getting an authentic example of this coveted reference.

The first and most noticeable feature of the Rolex Submariner 1680 Red Sub is the bold red "Submariner" text printed on the dial. This redline is the primary characteristic that sets it apart from other Submariner references, which generally feature white text. The red writing, which appeared only on specific production years, adds an unmistakable aesthetic to the watch and serves as a valuable point of identification for collectors.

In addition to the red text, the Rolex Submariner 1680 Red Sub has other key identifiers that help in verifying its authenticity. The case, with its signature stainless steel finish, features the reference number 1680 engraved between the lugs, making it easier to identify the exact model. The date function, located at the 3 o'clock position, is another important feature of the 1680, as it was the first time Rolex incorporated a date complication into the Submariner lineup.

Another distinguishing feature of the Red Sub is its glossy black dial with applied hour markers, offering superior legibility even in low light conditions. The hands are typically Mercedes-style, with luminous paint, and the watch often features a thicker case profile, which was a characteristic of the 1680 model. The presence of these design details is crucial for ensuring the authenticity of a Red Sub.

Recognizing Key Features of the ‘Red Sub’

When identifying a Rolex Submariner 1680 Red Sub, collectors often focus on the condition and originality of the watch. It's important to verify that the red text has not been altered or faded over time, as well as ensuring that the dial remains original. The Submariner 1680 Red Sub is known for its high-quality craftsmanship, and original examples of this model are rare and highly prized.

With its iconic red text, elegant design, and groundbreaking features, the Rolex Submariner 1680 ‘Red Sub’ is a true collectible. Recognizing these key features—especially the redline—ensures that collectors can accurately identify a genuine Red Sub and add this historic piece to their collection with confidence.

Understanding the Dial and Design of the ‘Red Sub’

The dial of the Rolex Submariner 1680 ‘Red Sub’ is one of the key elements that distinguishes it from other models in the Submariner collection. Beyond the iconic red text, the design of the dial is a perfect example of Rolex’s commitment to both functionality and aesthetic appeal. The 1680 Red Sub features a glossy black dial that reflects light in a way that enhances the legibility of the watch, even in the most challenging underwater conditions. This dial design was not just a stylistic choice but an essential feature for divers who relied on their watches for precise timekeeping in the depths.

The Rolex Submariner 1680 Red Sub is equipped with white hour markers, which contrast sharply against the black background, ensuring easy readability in low-light environments. The markers are applied using Rolex's signature method, which involves a combination of luminous material and precision placement. This contributes to the watch’s robust performance, particularly in underwater or dim-lit environments. The red “Submariner” text, prominently placed at 6 o'clock, adds a pop of color and visual interest to the otherwise minimalist dial. This small but bold detail has since become one of the most recognizable aspects of the model.

One of the design features that make the Red Sub so desirable to collectors is the use of the Mercedes hands, which are characteristic of most Submariner models. These hands—hour, minute, and second—are designed for optimal timekeeping and are also coated with luminescent material to ensure visibility in the dark. The signature Mercedes-style hands give the Red Sub its distinct appearance, contributing to the timeless look that has made this model so iconic.

The Impact of the Red Dial on the Design Legacy

The red text on the dial of the Rolex Submariner 1680 is more than just a color choice—it had a significant impact on the design legacy of the Submariner. While the use of red text was relatively subtle, it introduced a new level of visual intrigue that set the 1680 apart from its predecessors. The red dial also symbolized Rolex’s willingness to experiment with design, adding a touch of uniqueness to a model that was already renowned for its durability and functionality.

As a result of its unique features, the Rolex Submariner 1680 ‘Red Sub’ became a watch that not only had an impact on the world of dive watches but also on the design evolution of Rolex itself. The dial, with its red accents, would influence future models in the Submariner line and inspire designers to think more creatively about how color and text can enhance a watch's visual appeal. The Red Sub remains a quintessential example of how even subtle design elements can leave a lasting impression on the world of luxury watches.

The Movement and Technical Features of the Rolex Submariner 1680 ‘Red Sub’

The Rolex Submariner 1680 ‘Red Sub’ is not only revered for its design but also for the advanced movement and technical features that were groundbreaking at the time of its release. This model was the first in the Submariner line to feature a date function, which set it apart from previous, more basic dive models. The addition of the date complication added significant practical value, allowing divers and professionals to rely on the watch for daily timekeeping, not just for diving purposes. The movement that powered the Rolex 1680 ‘Red Sub’ was the caliber 1570, a self-winding mechanical movement that offered remarkable precision and reliability.

The caliber 1570 was an evolution of Rolex’s earlier movements, featuring improved accuracy and durability. With a power reserve of around 48 hours, the movement ensured that the Rolex Submariner 1680 ‘Red Sub’ could continue running smoothly for extended periods without requiring winding. This was particularly important for divers who needed to trust that their timepiece would perform without fail during long underwater excursions. The addition of a date function at the 3 o’clock position was made possible by the incorporation of a quickset date system, which allowed the wearer to easily adjust the date without moving the hour hand.

Additionally, the Rolex Submariner 1680 ‘Red Sub’ maintained the brand’s signature water resistance capabilities, a hallmark of the Submariner collection. The watch was rated to a depth of 200 meters (660 feet), making it suitable for most recreational diving activities. The Oyster case, which featured a robust stainless steel construction, ensured that the watch could withstand the pressure of deep water without compromising its integrity. This combination of functionality and durability made the 1680 Red Sub a reliable companion for both everyday use and extreme underwater conditions.

Innovations in the Movement and Functionality

The inclusion of the date complication in the Rolex Submariner 1680 ‘Red Sub’ was a major step forward in the technical evolution of the Submariner line. Not only did this model become the first in the Submariner series to feature a date display, but it also incorporated Rolex’s quickset date feature, which greatly improved the watch’s practicality. The quickset date system allowed the wearer to adjust the date independently from the time, a feature that made it more convenient for users compared to earlier models that required the wearer to rotate the hands to set the date.

The caliber 1570 movement in the 1680 Red Sub also demonstrated Rolex’s commitment to producing reliable, high-performance watches. Known for its robustness and precision, the movement became a standard for many Rolex models during this period, further cementing the brand’s reputation for exceptional craftsmanship. The combination of the movement’s technical prowess, the date function, and the watch’s rugged waterproof capabilities made the 1680 Red Sub a versatile and highly regarded piece in the Rolex collection.

The Value and Collectibility of the Rolex Submariner 1680 ‘Red Sub’

The Rolex Submariner 1680 ‘Red Sub’ has long been regarded as one of the most collectible models in the world of Rolex watches. Its status as a rare and iconic timepiece has made it a prized possession for watch collectors and enthusiasts alike. While the 1680 was not initially seen as a “limited edition,” its relatively short production run, coupled with the distinct red text on the dial, has contributed to its increasing value in the vintage market. Today, finding a well-preserved example of the 1680 Red Sub is a significant achievement for any collector.

The value of the Rolex Submariner 1680 Red Sub has steadily risen over the years, particularly as more collectors seek out this unique piece of Rolex history. The model is especially desirable in original, unpolished condition, with collectors paying a premium for watches that have retained their original dial, case, and hands. Watches with the red “Submariner” text in good condition are highly sought after because of their limited availability and their connection to a pivotal moment in Rolex’s history.

Several factors contribute to the 1680 Red Sub’s collectibility. First, the watch’s historical significance as the first Submariner to feature a date function makes it a key milestone in Rolex’s development of dive watches. Second, the red writing on the dial, which was only produced for a limited period, further enhances the watch’s appeal. Finally, the overall design of the 1680 Red Sub, with its timeless aesthetic and robust build, ensures that it continues to stand out among the many other vintage Rolex models.

Collecting the Red Sub: What to Look For

For collectors looking to add a Rolex Submariner 1680 Red Sub to their collection, it is essential to focus on a few key aspects to ensure authenticity and value. The condition of the watch is paramount, with well-preserved examples commanding the highest prices. Dial condition is particularly important, as the red “Submariner” text must remain intact and free from discoloration or fading. The case should also retain its original contours and should not be over-polished, as this can negatively impact the watch’s value. Furthermore, original components such as the hands, bezel insert, and movement are key to preserving the watch’s integrity and appeal.

Another important factor is the provenance of the watch. Watches with original documentation, such as the box and papers, tend to fetch higher prices, as they provide proof of the watch’s authenticity and history. Watches that have been serviced by Rolex or that come with a detailed service history are also more desirable, as they indicate that the watch has been well maintained and is in good working order.

As the demand for vintage Rolex watches continues to grow, the Rolex Submariner 1680 Red Sub remains a sought-after model, with its value showing no signs of slowing down. Whether you are a seasoned collector or new to the world of Rolex, adding a 1680 Red Sub to your collection is not just an investment in a watch, but in a piece of horological history.

Comparing the Rolex Submariner 1680 ‘Red Sub’ to Other Vintage Submariner Models

When it comes to vintage Rolex Submariner models, the 1680 ‘Red Sub’ stands out for its unique features, but it also shares some similarities with other references in the Submariner collection. Comparing the 1680 Red Sub to other vintage models in the Submariner family can help collectors and enthusiasts better understand what makes this reference so special, as well as how it fits within the broader legacy of Rolex dive watches.

One of the most significant differences between the Rolex Submariner 1680 Red Sub and earlier models is the addition of the date complication. The 1680 was the first in the Submariner lineup to include the date function, a major shift for the series, which had previously relied on simple time-only movements. This made the 1680 more practical for everyday use, appealing to both divers and professionals who needed to track the date along with the time. In comparison, earlier models, such as the 5512 and 5513 Submariners, remained time-only watches without any date function, which was typical of dive watches from the era.

The inclusion of the red "Submariner" text on the 1680 also sets it apart from other vintage Submariner models. While models like the 5512 and 5513 featured white text, the 1680's red writing created a striking contrast against the black dial, making it one of the most visually distinctive watches in the Submariner series. This small yet significant design change not only set the 1680 apart from earlier references but also made it one of the most collectible and sought-after vintage Rolex watches.

Another key difference is in the case construction. While the 1680 shares many similarities in its Oyster case design with earlier models, it also incorporates some improvements in robustness and water resistance. The 1680 Red Sub has a case size of 40mm, which is larger than earlier models like the 5513, which had a 39mm case. The larger case size of the 1680 contributed to its more modern appearance and increased comfort on the wrist.

The Appeal of the 1680 Red Sub Compared to Other Vintage Submariners

Despite these differences, the 1680 ‘Red Sub’ also shares many similarities with its vintage Submariner siblings. The overall design language, with its dive-ready features and iconic Mercedes hands, remains consistent across the entire Submariner collection. This consistency in design, combined with the added date function and unique red text, gives the 1680 Red Sub a balance of both vintage charm and modern appeal.

Collectors often find themselves drawn to the 1680 Red Sub because it represents a pivotal moment in Rolex's history, combining the traditional features of the Submariner with innovative design elements. When compared to other vintage Submariners, the 1680 Red Sub is often seen as a bridge between the past and the future, symbolizing both the evolution of the brand and the timeless appeal of the Submariner family.

The Legacy of the Rolex Submariner 1680 ‘Red Sub’ in Modern Watchmaking

The Rolex Submariner 1680 ‘Red Sub’ continues to hold a special place in modern watchmaking, even as the Submariner series has evolved over the years. Its iconic design, groundbreaking features, and connection to the Rolex brand’s history have cemented the 1680 Red Sub’s legacy as one of the most significant and revered vintage watches in the world. While Rolex has since introduced numerous iterations of the Submariner, the Red Sub remains a symbol of both innovation and tradition in the world of luxury dive watches.

One of the major reasons the 1680 Red Sub remains relevant today is due to its pioneering role in the evolution of the Submariner collection. As the first Submariner to feature the date complication, the 1680 was a crucial step in Rolex’s commitment to offering both functional and stylish timepieces for everyday use. This integration of the date function in the Submariner line set the stage for future models, such as the Rolex Submariner 116610, which continues to include the date function as a standard feature.

Moreover, the distinctive red text on the 1680 Red Sub paved the way for a more adventurous approach to design, with the bold color contrasting sharply against the watch’s black dial. This incorporation of color, though subtle, added a touch of flair that would later influence other Rolex models, including the highly coveted Rolex "Pepsi" GMT-Master and other iconic dive watches. The legacy of the red dial, along with the innovative features of the 1680, has inspired not just collectors but also watchmakers who continue to look back at this reference for design inspiration.

The Enduring Appeal of the 1680 Red Sub Today

In modern watch culture, the Rolex Submariner 1680 Red Sub is more than just a timepiece—it's a cultural artifact that connects the present with Rolex's storied past. The 1680 remains an enduring example of how design and function can work seamlessly together, making it as relevant today as it was when it was first introduced. While many collectors focus on the watch's rarity and investment potential, the Red Sub is also celebrated for its historical importance and its influence on the development of dive watches.

Today, the 1680 Red Sub continues to inspire a new generation of Rolex enthusiasts, many of whom are drawn to its combination of vintage charm and modern functionality. Whether it’s worn as an everyday watch, displayed as part of a luxury collection, or treasured as a piece of Rolex history, the 1680 Red Sub stands as a testament to the brand's ability to create timeless, groundbreaking designs that continue to shape the world of watchmaking.